Connection problems.

[MaxPower]

I've already tried running the board on Windows 10, but nothing worked for me (viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15). In Ubuntu 20.04.2 LTS, the board must be connected several times and the reset button must be pressed several times to display it in the list of usb devices. The board displays as OpenMoko. Then, using the command cu -l / dev / ttyACM0, the board outputs hello world to the console and the board disconnects and feeds from the list of usb devices. The board does not work with any other clients such as PuTTY and the like. I also cannot flash the board accordingly.
What could it be a hardware malfunction or a faulty startup firmware? I need help as I cannot complete the project.

[anthony-ql]

Please review this thread and see if it will help you, viewtopic.php?f=9&t=99

[anthony-ql]

Check out this thread, viewtopic.php?f=9&t=105

[battlecoder]

Hi,
I'm having the same timeout issue (Shown as "Error 10" initializing the device in Windows).
I tried in three different Windows 10 computers (Two Windows 10 Pro machines, and one Windows 10 Home) with the same results.
I also tried in two Linux computers (Both running Xubuntu), and the port appears as /dev/ttyACM0 but as soon as I try the tinyfpga-programmer-gui.py app it disappears.

I checked the linked forum threads, installed the device rules for Ubuntu on my machines, but it did not help, so I moved into reflashing the device.

Now, I don't have a J-Link programmer, but I converted a Nucleo board to one (using SEGGER's firmware for ST-Link boards).
I also made the cable for the tiny 10-pin SWD connector on the QuickFeather.

I'm following the instructions from this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q5GIZUsXb3I (In the How to unbrick the device).
My "J-Link" connects to the board and recognizes the Cortex M4 processor, and I can issue the reset command which seems to succeed.
"loadbin qf_loadflash.bin 0x0" also succeeds. Same with the "r" and "g" commands issued later.
However, this does not fix the issue. The board behaves exactly as before.


I don't know what else to try at this point, so I'm open to suggestions.

[phil_quik]

Try connect directly to a PC, not through USB hub.
Or change another USB cable to try.

[battlecoder]

Try connect directly to a PC, not through USB hub.
Or change another USB cable to try.

I tried today with 4 different cables and still no luck. (EDIT1) I'm not using a hub. Can try on the other computers later with the other cables too, but I don't think this is a cable issue.
Just a thought: Does the USB port need to be 2.0 ? 3.0? Because only two of my machines have USB 3.0 ports.

(EDIT2) It seems to be "somewhat" working now, on my PC with USB 3.0 ports. I cannot tell for sure if that's the root of the problem, or if it's related to something else, but other than the operating system (that so far has made NO difference) that's one of the key differences between the machines I have at my disposal. It would be great if someone could conduct further experiments regarding USB version. Maybe there's a bug or something that makes it incompatible with older ports.

Anyway, I'm still having issues with the board, but they are no longer "connection" problems per se, so I'll probably open a separate thread to avoid sabotaging OP's thread, and keep this discussion strictly about the type of connection issues we both experienced.

[MaxPower]

Yes, I also tried several wires of 5 computers with different versions of Windows and Linux and the result is the same. I have a feeling that this is a hardware malfunction of the microcircuit or some element on the board. If you connect the board through a device that measures USB voltage and voltage, then there will be no signals on the D- line (I would have posted a screenshot, but I do not know how to do it). Unfortunately, I don't have the JLINK progromator yet.

battlecoder
How did you make the 10 pin SWD connector?

[battlecoder]

battlecoder
How did you make the 10 pin SWD connector?

I was lucky to have a small 10 pin (5x2) header with 1.27mm spacing that I once bought for small OLED displays, and they fit perfectly on the SWD connector on the board.

5x2_header_sm.jpg (84.77 KiB) Viewed 21510 times

Reflashing the device made it work with 2 of my Win10 machines.

Now, I suspect that there's some compatibility issues with older USB revisions. My main PC's motherboard is really old and only has USB 2.0 ports, and even after reflashing, the QuickFeather board is not working with it. The two Win10 machines where the QuickFeather is working (after reflashing) they both have USB 3.0 ports. Unfortunately one of them is my "work" laptop (that I can't really use to install the remaining software and do the development on), and the other one is a W10 TabletPC (with not enough RAM or CPU to do anything on it), so I'm still in a situation where I can't really work with the device.

I'm NOT sure about the USB compatibility suspicions I have, so I ordered a USB 3.0 PCI card for my main PC to see if that fixes it for me, but it would be great if you can check the USB version of your ports MaxPower.

[MaxPower]

I tried on three computers with Win10 there were only USB 2.0 and the board did not work on any computer. I also tried on two laptops on one of them there is USB 3.0, but Win8 is installed there and there, too, the same situation as on Win10 cannot find the driver and writes error code 10.

Maybe the board does not have enough power in USB2.0 500mA and in USB 3.0 900mA?

[battlecoder]

Not sure. I did try connecting additional power to the board while it was connected to the USB port, and the situation did not improve. Looks more like a handshake or timing issue.